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Messages - hoshichiri

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46
AGAIN, "disc rot" as originally coined, was a term relating to pressing errors that occured during the manufacturing of some LaserDiscs in from specific pressing plants. While the original definition and symptoms of disc rot are still valid, the general public has turned it into a xerox or kleenex issue, using this term as a generic term to cover all disc wear issues. Specifically, disc rot relates to the organic compounds in LaserDiscs decaying due to exposure to atmosphere due to the discs not being properly sealed by the pressers. The only other "common" types of optical media that can experience disc rot are organic dye recordables (CD/DVD/BD/R) and the FlexPlay discs.

All of the other defects and aging that occur with optical media are not disc rot unless they contain organic materials and the sealant is damaged. Pinholes and reflective layer flaking (such as can be found on music CD, Sega CD/Saturn/Dreamcast and CD-ROM are different types of wear that can occur. Bronzing on recordable media (that which has organic dye) are undergoing a process similar to disc rot. Bronzing on non-organic (pressed) media is not.

I do wonder what will OLED TVs look like in 10-20 years once those start to naturally decay.

*takes notes* Good stuff to know.

I assume this changes nothing about disc care, however- proper case & temperature/humidity should keep a disc going until it naturally decays, & there's not much to be done about said decay? Obviously I want to do right by my media, so if there's something I can do to care for it better I'm very interested!

Did they ever settle the vertical vs. horizontal storage thing? I remember that being a debate years ago- 'hortizontal storage puts pressure on the disc & damages the data later', 'vertical storage puts pressure on the hub & causes warping', that kinda thing.

47
My understanding is- disc rot is, most commonly, a result of defects from the disc's manufacturing- a bit of air or dirt that got caught inside the layers of the disc & breaks down the data layer from the inside. This is why it tends to be more common on earlier discs, from before standards for manufacturing were refined- but it can happen to any disc.

Becuase the offending bit of crud is, literally, a part of the disc itself, you can't really stop disc rot. All the above advice- use a proper case, cool dry environment, etc. are good to be doing regardless- these prevent the disc from being damaged due to preventable measures. Otherwise? If it's gonna go, it'll go- there's nothing you can really do about it.

By my experience, even if you've got early signs of possible rot, there's a good likelihood your game will continue to work for years to come- I've got more than one disc with clouding or even pinholes, and so far nothing's actually failed. You might seek out a better condition replacement if it's a favorite- but beside that, you shouldn't sweat it too much. Just take care of your stuff in general. Scratches or heat damage will kill your game way faster than rot ever will!

48
Off Topic / Re: The Simpsons
« on: March 14, 2020, 08:55:12 am »
I mostly just remember my parents deciding we were 'old enough' for the Simpsons. It was when the camping episode aired, which was a big enough deal to warrant a Burger King (?) toy line. The two of those coinciding made it seem like a Big Life Moment- I am truly grown up, becuase I can watch The Simpsons.

Never got that into it, though. Played the arcade game at the local mall a lot (I always picked Lisa) & used to un-plug/re-plug the Pinball machine at the bowling alley so it would do the song.

49
General / Re: Does a Game and Box Have to Match Exactly?
« on: March 13, 2020, 12:25:35 pm »
I only try to match things with key visual differences- for example, a Greatest Hits disc gets a Greatest Hits case. I don't fret over trying to match serial numbers & disc codes- seems like too much work to find a list of what matches what, especially since you'd need to check everything you bought used (who's to say it didn't get piecemealed before your bought it?)

I actually do own a couple of 'mistmatched' titles. My copy of Daxter on PSP is a Greatest Hits disc in a regular case. I'm not sure that one counts, becuase it's technically the pack-in version and I have the lil' slipcover from that in there. It's more like I got a Daxter storage case for my GH pack-in copy. The real problem title is my copy of Killer Instinct on Xbox One- I wasn't paying enough attention when I picked it up secondhand at Gamestop, didn't figure out until the next day I got the Definitive Edition discs in a Combo Breaker case. Technically it worked out for me- I got charged for the Combo Breaker version, which is cheaper, but now I can't find an empty case of the Definitive Edition for sale to make it 'match'. I really only need the art insert, I bought a replacement case with 2 disc hubs- but I can't find that either. *shrugs*

50
Modern Video Games / Re: I uncovered some old games!
« on: March 11, 2020, 10:05:32 am »
Very nice! I've never fully experienced this, as I've never put away a game collection in that way. The closest I came was the happy day I cleaning out an old junk box and discovered that young me, in a moment of foresight, had carefully flattened and stored the boxes for my copies of Zelda Oracles of Ages & Oracle of Seasons. Only complete GBC titles I own.

51
General / Re: Is Coronavirus going to crash the video game market?
« on: March 11, 2020, 10:00:32 am »
Not really- I imagine if anything, a temporary dip as people stay home instead of searching out retro games 'in the wild', followed by a brief uptick when things subside & people 'treat' themselves to going out & splurging now that they can.

Of course, given that mail services are still going, I imagine most places & people will take advantage by doing some online sales. Plus, cabin fever is a real thing- a lot of able-bodied folks will likely decide one trip to the mall won't hurt as long as they wash their hands & don't touch anyone.

If anything, I imagine they real effect of this will be on availability of new games. With manufacturing slowed down, we may see shortages of new releases continue for months out. Nothing that would make a title impossible to get, but perhaps just enough to justify pre-ordering stuff you really want.

52
Play & keep. I enjoy having the archive around, even if I'm not going to be actively using most of it save for a couple days a year. It's good for research (sometimes it's faster just to pull out my copies than to look things up online). Most importantly, it's especially good for sharing with others. I've had such times come up a lot over the years.

My brother to a friend 'No, Kid Icarus was great, you have to try it if you get a chance!"
Me overhearing: "I'll go get it set up."
Brother: "Wait, you HAVE Kid Icarus?!"

My sister: "I'd love to get that original Zelda collection for my Gamecube, but it's too expensive."
Me: "I have it if you want to borrow it."
Sister: "REALLY?!"

Friend: "Have you heard anything about this Journey game? It looks good & the soundtrack seems cool."
Me: "I have it- when can you come over?"

BIL: "I'm probably gonna get rid of my PS2 stuff soon, my only controller broke so I can't play it anymore."
Me: *Throws PS2 controller at him*
BIL: "I can't take your controller!"
Me: "It's fine, I've got 5 as it is. I'm sure I'll find another one cheap at a thrift store eventually anyway." (One week and $2 later I'd already replaced the one I gave him)

Going through the collection & relishing the nostalgia & the history is fine, but nothing- NOTHING- beats the sharing with others. Makes me wish I had more people to share with sometimes.

53
When I use my Game Boy Player I almost always connect my SP as the controller because I can't stand using the GameCube controller for Game Boy games.

Wait- you connect your...

HOW DID I NOT KNOW THAT WAS AN OPTION?!

That's gonna make a LOT of my GBA games SO much easier to play!

54
Modern Video Games / Re: Always online and the era of disposable games
« on: March 07, 2020, 09:25:23 am »
I don't buy any game that doesn't have a single player option, 'always online' or no. There's so many reasons why it's a terrible idea.

For active games, it makes it extra difficult for a new player to start if it's been any length of time since the game's launch- there's no way to learn the controls & get a lil' stash of items going without being gunned down by more experienced players. It's less of an issue in non-combat focused games- I've heard stories of high level No Man's Sky players seeking out new players to shower them with goodies- but there's not a lot of games you can do that in.

For inactive games, it's basically pointless- you get to sit around, hoping someone might show up to play with you- and that's assuming the servers are up. Once had a friend desperate to show us Phantasy Star Online on the GC long after the game was turned off. We made characters, and we... ran around the hub, being told what you used to be able to do & how awesome it was. Not that you could do any of it now, mind you. Probably the most pointless round of gaming I've ever done.

As a general rule, I avoid always online games, but I might pick one up if it has a single player mode, and it's cheap enough. I think I paid 4 bucks for Battleborn new, for example. That way I can probably get my money's worth before the servers go offline, and if I'm lucky they'll patch it to run the single player game offline. Maybe I should put in Battleborn, see if that's been done.

55
As stated, the Gameboy Player is needed to run Gameboy games on a TV from a Gamecube- you need both the player (hooks onto the bottom of the Gamecube) and the startup disc (by far the hardest bit to find.) The cable you have is likely just the one used to operate a GBA like a second screen/controller in certain games. It's used, for example, in multiplayer on Zelda Four Sword Adventure & Crystal Chronicles. It can also be used with an E-reader to scan Animal Crossing cards for goodies in that game.

If you want an official means of playing Gameboy games on your TV, the GC Gameboy Player is your best option. The SNES has the Super Gameboy, but it only covers original GB titles. The GC player will run GB, GBC, and GBA. If you're OK with aftermarket options, there's a few floating around- The Innovation adapter from back in the day hooks onto your GBA & runs a composite cable out to your TV. It's hard to find now, you'd probably be better off with the GB player if your already have a Gamecube. Many of the multi-players (your retrons and what-not) have GB slots- anything that does should run the full library, but system build varies so do your homework. There's also the GBA consolizer- that's a kit to turn a GBA into an HDMI-connectible unit. It's currently the only HDMI option (aside from HDMI modding a Gamecube & getting a GB player), but it does involve mod work & sacrificing a GBA to get re-built into the TV variant. You'll need an SNES controller for gameplay, & some places have 'shells' to replace the GBA body entirely so it looks more console-y. The kit's also currently sold out, but you might find people selling it & finished units around the 'net.

56
Off Topic / Re: Is it just me, or do 98% of new movies suck?
« on: March 05, 2020, 09:10:40 am »
98% of most media sucks, we just forget most of it as time goes on. It makes it far easier to dismiss the stuff directly in front of us as worse than the past becuase all the bland, uninteresting, or simply less than memorable titles fade away.

I've never watched a lot of movies, so it's easier for me to equate to my old anime obsession. I've been largely out of the loop for several years now. If I try to think back on what was around when I was into it, I mostly just remember the big titles that briefly held people's focus (all of which are basically irrelevant now). You know what I don't remember? The names of the dozens of shows whose DVDs I sold/gave away, many still shrink-wrapped, becuase I bought them during clearance blowouts & assumed I'd get to it later. There's just so much stuff being made at any time, if you only focus on what's new it's always going to look bad.

I poked around real quick, & I grabbed this list of  American movies of 2010. I'm curious- how many do you remember? How many were good? How many could you name without having this list in front of you? It's worth noting, this isn't a complete list either- so there's more movies from 10 years ago so forgotten they never made the Wikipedia list. To even see everything on this unfinished list, you would have needed to go to the movies 4 times a week on average. It's not so surprising that many movies look cookie cutter when you only look at the newest things available- they ARE. They HAVE to be for this kind of pace to be maintained. Eventually time pushes most of it into obscurity, & movie houses will get to have special events showcasing 'the films of the 90s' (or whatever era) and spend 3 months playing a dozen or so movies of the literal hundreds that would have been available, and everyone will say 'boy, weren't movies better in the 90s (or whatever)?' That's hindsight for ya.

57
Robbers like to steal- anything valuable they can get ahold of that's easy to sell.

Robbers target- places that are easy to get into.

That's honestly the long & short of it, really. In the department store I work at, shoes get heavily targeted for theft- they're fairly close to the door, easy to carry, & there's a robust collector's market for the right brands (Nike gets targeted pretty heavily.) You'd think they'd go for the more expensive brand name handbags- but those are chained to the displays, you'd need to come in with clippers to get at most of them. It can be done, but it's hard to walk around a store with clippers and not look suspicious, so it doesn't come up.

Media gets targeted becuase most pawn shops will take it. Not every shop takes every thing, though- which would certainly explain the desperation to see exactly what you had. You honestly seem to have the right idea going- don't broadcast too heavily what you own, don't let just anyone in to your place. I'd just keep the doors locked (maybe make sure you've got a good deadbolt for when you're inside too) & have a talk with the other residents of your place about being more cautious of who's allowed in and what they're allowed to see. You're certainly doing better than a friend I used to have who was very paranoid about this kind of thing, but always came to really weird conclusions. For example: they insisted on not having ground floor apartments becuase that was how their friend got robbed- ignoring that said friend was robbed by a causal acquaintance who'd been invited over before, & knew said friend's work schedule. Doesn't matter where in the building your apartment is if you let yourself get cased!

58
Classic Video Games / Re: Your top 10 Favorite Sega Genesis games
« on: February 27, 2020, 10:08:24 am »
Since most of my mainstays (Sonic, Ristar, Streets of Rage, Thunder Force series) have been brought up, I'm gonna try to go for a few games no one's mentioned yet:

Cyborg Justice: A never-named game from my childhood. It's been a while, maybe it doesn't hold up as well as I remember, but it's an interesting premise. It's a 2D beat 'em up where you play robots. You build a custom bot for yourself at the beginning of the game, which changes up your attacks/appearance. Here's the kicker: maybe you run into an enemy bot with the flamethrower arm, & you regret taking the chainsaw arm. So- steal his! You can literally rip apart any baddie you go up against & take their parts as your own. Be careful, though- they can do it to you too!

Sparkster: A couple folks brought up Rocket Knight Adventures, so I'm surprised no one's mentioned its awesome sequel!

Landstalker: An isometric action RPG that's great fun for fans of old-school Zelda. Just, um, make sure your can save. I lost a lot of progress to a dead battery once.

Since Aladdin's been mentioned a few times: if you get stuck, pause & quickly hit a,b,b,a,a,b,b,a. Do it right & you'll auto-complete the level. I once beat the game at Disneyland doing that. ;)

59
Unfortunately, it is impossible to be 100% sure if anything is completely safe. It's not just the shrink wrap, it's the age too- certain chemicals react with air/sunlight, so your shrink wrap will have unique properties even other old wrap is not guaranteed to have.

Your greatest weapon is going to be: PAITENCE. You're not going to be able to get a good scrub of anything, so all your options will take a lot of time. This is not a 10 minute project. This may be a multi-day project. Don't rush.

I've used lemon furniture polish as an adhesive remover for years, so that's a secondary option for you if you become concerned the goo gone will be too harsh (but I doubt it, so don't worry on it too much.) If you do decide to try it, spray a good pile of foam on a rag (you need the foaming kind), then use a paintbrush to apply over your adhesive. Let it set a minute, then do the thing with the qtip.

I'd skip the wet tissue, personally- if the adhesive retains (or regains) any tackiness, you run the risk of getting tissue bits stuck to your game. Get a soft microfiber cloth (mine are from the dollar store & the bargain section in front of Target, they're cheap enough) & gently wipe away the residue. You should have enough residual moisture from the cleaner to help the cloth absorb the gunk. If not, have a second microfiber cloth you can get damp so you don't leave tissue bits behind. If you do have the furniture polish, you can use it instead of water to dampen the cloth.

60
I heard somewhere never to use an pencil eraser

Oh, I've heard basically everything  is both good & bad. Iso & Qtips is best! Iso & Qtips leaves cotton bits on your contacts & could rust! Erasers gently take off debris! Erasers CAUSE debris! Metal polish shines up contacts! Metal polish erodes contacts! Try/don't try fiberglass pens, stove cleaner, electric contact cleaner, windex... there's a myriad of things out there people say work & dont work (usually both). I even tried lemon juice once in a pinch, and it did actually work- I'd just NEVER recommend it!

Basically, I settled into iso/eraser/brite boy as overall consensus is more on the 'it's ok' side... provided you spend most of your efforts with the iso. Basically, use the alcohol multiple times. If it doesn't work, try the eraser once & use iso after. If that doesn't work, then try the brite boy (effectively brasso without the residue), followed with more iso to make sure you don't leave any on it. In short- it needs to be a case of 'it's this or the trash'.


thanks for the insight and advice @hoshichiri sorry if I sounded rude :-\

Not at all- nothing bad about making sure someone isn't inadvertently harming their games. In the case of pencil erasers, my understanding is the eraser itself is fine, it's the metal bracket that attaches to the pencil that's the issue- it can scratch up your contacts if it hits them. A separate eraser is fine. I actually have a lil' bag of erasers already, but they're all black & I'm not sure if the color could transfer. I'll look into it. Or just buy a new one- it's not like erasers are expensive!

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