Do You Ever Find That A Game Don't Work And No Way To Return It?

[oldgamerz]

Buying used CD and Video Games as well as Bluray can come with some risk, and with everyone seeming to have a big backlog like myself. I wanted to ask the question how you deal with a game that freezes up while your in the middle with it.

Do you check for scratches or disc rot? or in a cartridge's case manner, do you check for corrosion?

I think I already picked up 4 Call Of Duty Games for the PS3 that have holes in which indicate disc rot. In the disc art. even though they seem to work but I don't trust them and it is a pain in the ass.

I hate to buy disc based games off amazon because they often will have un-repairable scratches, or critical scratches, yet my problem is minor scratches don't always kill a game, but occasional it makes a game lock up

Luckly for me I can usally return them and get a replacement copy like I did with a game this month, but only because I checked to see if it worked.

One of my games I bought this month had no disc rot or barely any scratches yet my Xbox could never boot up the disc, yet all the other games worked fine, No problem for me, I returned it in time.

But I told the store out right that this game does not work and they said they were just going to resurface it and leave it in store inventory, In spite of me telling them do not re-sell this game. It don't detect.

[hoshichiri]

In a lot of cases, the resurfacing does work- unfortunately, Gsmestop has a nasty reputation for using their customers as the Guinea pigs for testing games. So basically, if multiple people return that busted disc even after the resurfacing, THEN they'll damage it.

This is why anything used immediately goes into the system for 3-5 minutes, just to make sure it's all working. The only loss I've taken recently is on a copy of Medievil I bought at a retro show (so no place to return to). It just looked dusty on the show floor, but cleaning it revealed a gouge I missed the first time. Oh well- eventually I'll sell the case/manual to mitigate the loss.

Keeping cleaning supplies around is a big ol' must-do for collectors. For carts I've got 1-up cards/qtips/iso for basic cleaning, & a bottle of Brite Boy for a last resort (only needed once!) I usually dig up an eraser for a mid-tier attempt, I should buy one specifically for the cleaning bin. For discs, I have a bottle of Gamestop's long discontinued disc skip fixer. I desperately need to find more of that stuff under any label- it works well for superficial marks (the kind that cause skipping, but not freezes). I don't know what I'll do when I run out- home disc machines have never been good & I can't afford a professional one.

[oldgamerz]

In a lot of cases, the resurfacing does work- unfortunately, Gsmestop has a nasty reputation for using their customers as the Guinea pigs for testing games. So basically, if multiple people return that busted disc even after the resurfacing, THEN they'll damage it.

This is why anything used immediately goes into the system for 3-5 minutes, just to make sure it's all working. The only loss I've taken recently is on a copy of Medievil I bought at a retro show (so no place to return to). It just looked dusty on the show floor, but cleaning it revealed a gouge I missed the first time. Oh well- eventually I'll sell the case/manual to mitigate the loss.

Keeping cleaning supplies around is a big ol' must-do for collectors. For carts I've got 1-up cards/qtips/iso for basic cleaning, & a bottle of Brite Boy for a last resort (only needed once!) I usually dig up an eraser for a mid-tier attempt, I should buy one specifically for the cleaning bin. For discs, I have a bottle of Gamestop's long discontinued disc skip fixer. I desperately need to find more of that stuff under any label- it works well for superficial marks (the kind that cause skipping, but not freezes). I don't know what I'll do when I run out- home disc machines have never been good & I can't afford a professional one.

Sometimes I've had music CD's that have no disc rot or any scratches at all, and the disc doesn't read (example)

My grandma had an official music CD that looked in perfect shape with no rot, and no visible scratches but for some reason that disc was somehow wiped out It would not read. It worked fine 10 years ago it was brand new. and looked perfect.

the CD player could not even play any song on it. However she had a burned copy of something else, but that CD worked fine.

 and both of these music CD's were left in the same car for at least 10 years and exposed to the same exact elements but I will admit that the CD that didn't work, may have been 18-20 years in her car exposed to the elements but safely in the case though

AND I also had music CD's read just fine with actual multiple cases of disc rot too, it's weird how CD's die.

New is best

[sworddude]

In a lot of cases, the resurfacing does work- unfortunately, Gsmestop has a nasty reputation for using their customers as the Guinea pigs for testing games. So basically, if multiple people return that busted disc even after the resurfacing, THEN they'll damage it.

This is why anything used immediately goes into the system for 3-5 minutes, just to make sure it's all working. The only loss I've taken recently is on a copy of Medievil I bought at a retro show (so no place to return to). It just looked dusty on the show floor, but cleaning it revealed a gouge I missed the first time. Oh well- eventually I'll sell the case/manual to mitigate the loss.

Keeping cleaning supplies around is a big ol' must-do for collectors. For carts I've got 1-up cards/qtips/iso for basic cleaning, & a bottle of Brite Boy for a last resort (only needed once!) I usually dig up an eraser for a mid-tier attempt, I should buy one specifically for the cleaning bin. For discs, I have a bottle of Gamestop's long discontinued disc skip fixer. I desperately need to find more of that stuff under any label- it works well for superficial marks (the kind that cause skipping, but not freezes). I don't know what I'll do when I run out- home disc machines have never been good & I can't afford a professional one.

Sometimes I've had music CD's that have no disc rot or any scratches at all, and the disc doesn't read (example)

My grandma had an official music CD that looked in perfect shape with no rot, and no visible scratches but for some reason that disc was somehow wiped out It would not read. It worked fine 10 years ago it was brand new. and looked perfect.

the CD player could not even play any song on it. However she had a burned copy of something else, but that CD worked fine.

 and both of these music CD's were left in the same car for at least 10 years and exposed to the same exact elements but I will admit that the CD that didn't work, may have been 18-20 years in her car exposed to the elements but safely in the case though

AND I also had music CD's read just fine with actual multiple cases of disc rot too, it's weird how CD's die.

New is best

you also have people that have really trash condition disc with tons of deep scratches. Bring it to disc repair and damm you'll have a pretty smooth disc  in the end also withouth disc rot. wich while it looks pretty nice obviously doesnt work thans the the deep scratches that you can't see anymore.

[Warmsignal]

To be honest, I think those holes in regards to modern games discs indicate people not taking care for their stuff more than anything else. Particularly when it comes to certain titles, you'll find that condition is more of challenge due to the demographic of those who typically buy and re-sell those games. Hate to say it, but it's true.

If you're buying a Call of Duty game for example, I'd suggest going on eBay and searching out listings which describe the condition as mint. If you pick it up from a trade-in store, it's very likely to be trashed. Discs don't fare very well as a children's toy. PS3 game discs are very susceptible to label side scratching which can destroy the data layer of the disc.

[droaa]

No but I have bought discs in the past that upon first glance looks fine only to find out that it doesnt work properly in that either it freezes, skips or other such issues and unfortunately, I would check said discs months after I bought them so I cant even return them. If its heavily scratched then of course but the issue is discs that look like nothing and it should play fine but you dont really know until you check.

[oldgamerz]

In a lot of cases, the resurfacing does work- unfortunately, Gsmestop has a nasty reputation for using their customers as the Guinea pigs for testing games. So basically, if multiple people return that busted disc even after the resurfacing, THEN they'll damage it.

This is why anything used immediately goes into the system for 3-5 minutes, just to make sure it's all working. The only loss I've taken recently is on a copy of Medievil I bought at a retro show (so no place to return to). It just looked dusty on the show floor, but cleaning it revealed a gouge I missed the first time. Oh well- eventually I'll sell the case/manual to mitigate the loss.

Keeping cleaning supplies around is a big ol' must-do for collectors. For carts I've got 1-up cards/qtips/iso for basic cleaning, & a bottle of Brite Boy for a last resort (only needed once!) I usually dig up an eraser for a mid-tier attempt, I should buy one specifically for the cleaning bin. For discs, I have a bottle of Gamestop's long discontinued disc skip fixer. I desperately need to find more of that stuff under any label- it works well for superficial marks (the kind that cause skipping, but not freezes). I don't know what I'll do when I run out- home disc machines have never been good & I can't afford a professional one.

I heard somewhere never to use an pencil eraser

[sworddude]

No but I have bought discs in the past that upon first glance looks fine only to find out that it doesnt work properly in that either it freezes, skips or other such issues and unfortunately, I would check said discs months after I bought them so I cant even return them. If its heavily scratched then of course but the issue is discs that look like nothing and it should play fine but you dont really know until you check.

I've heard of people buying heavy scratched games wich are beyond repair for dirt cheap in bulk, resurfacing them so that you barely notice anything. and than trading hundreds of such games to stores like gamestop wich will not check those since it looks pretty alright.

if a disc looks fine and doesnt have any traces of disc rot but it doesnt work, you'll have pretty high odds of a guy just having it resurfaced to hide the heavy scratches.

[droaa]

No but I have bought discs in the past that upon first glance looks fine only to find out that it doesnt work properly in that either it freezes, skips or other such issues and unfortunately, I would check said discs months after I bought them so I cant even return them. If its heavily scratched then of course but the issue is discs that look like nothing and it should play fine but you dont really know until you check.

I've heard of people buying heavy scratched games wich are beyond repair for dirt cheap in bulk, resurfacing them so that you barely notice anything. and than trading hundreds of such games to stores like gamestop wich will not check those since it looks pretty alright.

if a disc looks fine and doesnt have any traces of disc rot but it doesnt work, you'll have pretty high odds of a guy just having it resurfaced to hide the heavy scratches.

Well that makes sense nor was I aware of disc scratches being hidden on non working games. I remember the first time this happened to me years ago with Star Ocean 3 not wanting to load beyond the tutorial. Sucks that it happens but a reminder to check discs you buy immediately when you buy them

[hoshichiri]

I heard somewhere never to use an pencil eraser

Oh, I've heard basically everything  is both good & bad. Iso & Qtips is best! Iso & Qtips leaves cotton bits on your contacts & could rust! Erasers gently take off debris! Erasers CAUSE debris! Metal polish shines up contacts! Metal polish erodes contacts! Try/don't try fiberglass pens, stove cleaner, electric contact cleaner, windex... there's a myriad of things out there people say work & dont work (usually both). I even tried lemon juice once in a pinch, and it did actually work- I'd just NEVER recommend it!

Basically, I settled into iso/eraser/brite boy as overall consensus is more on the 'it's ok' side... provided you spend most of your efforts with the iso. Basically, use the alcohol multiple times. If it doesn't work, try the eraser once & use iso after. If that doesn't work, then try the brite boy (effectively brasso without the residue), followed with more iso to make sure you don't leave any on it. In short- it needs to be a case of 'it's this or the trash'.

[dharmajones93]

I enjoy bring the carts home and resuscitating them. My wife calls it surgery... ISO and Q-tips, brasso, cleaning cloths and a soldering iron are really all you need. Of course some patience and a light touch.

The only game I've had trouble returning was a $5 copy of Tiger Heli that I just could not get to work. Inside it had quite a bit of burnt flux which lead me to believe it shorted. It worked on a clone a few times, but never long enough to get past the title screen then just stopped all together. It wasn't worth taking back for $5. Luckily it was a three screw cartridge, as I was able to pick up a copy of the five screw later. I keep it just to say I have the three screw variant and play the 5 screw that works.

[oldgamerz]

I heard somewhere never to use an pencil eraser

Oh, I've heard basically everything  is both good & bad. Iso & Qtips is best! Iso & Qtips leaves cotton bits on your contacts & could rust! Erasers gently take off debris! Erasers CAUSE debris! Metal polish shines up contacts! Metal polish erodes contacts! Try/don't try fiberglass pens, stove cleaner, electric contact cleaner, windex... there's a myriad of things out there people say work & dont work (usually both). I even tried lemon juice once in a pinch, and it did actually work- I'd just NEVER recommend it!

Basically, I settled into iso/eraser/brite boy as overall consensus is more on the 'it's ok' side... provided you spend most of your efforts with the iso. Basically, use the alcohol multiple times. If it doesn't work, try the eraser once & use iso after. If that doesn't work, then try the brite boy (effectively brasso without the residue), followed with more iso to make sure you don't leave any on it. In short- it needs to be a case of 'it's this or the trash'.

thanks for the insight and advice @hoshichiri sorry if I sounded rude

[hoshichiri]

I heard somewhere never to use an pencil eraser

Oh, I've heard basically everything  is both good & bad. Iso & Qtips is best! Iso & Qtips leaves cotton bits on your contacts & could rust! Erasers gently take off debris! Erasers CAUSE debris! Metal polish shines up contacts! Metal polish erodes contacts! Try/don't try fiberglass pens, stove cleaner, electric contact cleaner, windex... there's a myriad of things out there people say work & dont work (usually both). I even tried lemon juice once in a pinch, and it did actually work- I'd just NEVER recommend it!

Basically, I settled into iso/eraser/brite boy as overall consensus is more on the 'it's ok' side... provided you spend most of your efforts with the iso. Basically, use the alcohol multiple times. If it doesn't work, try the eraser once & use iso after. If that doesn't work, then try the brite boy (effectively brasso without the residue), followed with more iso to make sure you don't leave any on it. In short- it needs to be a case of 'it's this or the trash'.

thanks for the insight and advice @hoshichiri sorry if I sounded rude

Not at all- nothing bad about making sure someone isn't inadvertently harming their games. In the case of pencil erasers, my understanding is the eraser itself is fine, it's the metal bracket that attaches to the pencil that's the issue- it can scratch up your contacts if it hits them. A separate eraser is fine. I actually have a lil' bag of erasers already, but they're all black & I'm not sure if the color could transfer. I'll look into it. Or just buy a new one- it's not like erasers are expensive!

[tripredacus]

My price paid per item (be it video games or movies) is at such a low level that if it doesn't work, it is not a big deal. Let's say for movies, I have a maximum price for media. $5 for BD/HD-DVD, $3 for DVD, $1 for VHS or other formats. For the least reliable of the media, DVD and VHS at those prices it isn't a huge loss if it doesn't work.

[Cartagia]

My price paid per item (be it video games or movies) is at such a low level that if it doesn't work, it is not a big deal. Let's say for movies, I have a maximum price for media. $5 for BD/HD-DVD, $3 for DVD, $1 for VHS or other formats. For the least reliable of the media, DVD and VHS at those prices it isn't a huge loss if it doesn't work.

Yeah, this is kind of where I’m at right now, too.  I also have a disc repair / buffing device, so I rarely care about imperfections in the disc either.

I hate to buy disc based games off amazon because they often will have un-repairable scratches, or critical scratches, yet my problem is minor scratches don't always kill a game, but occasional it makes a game lock up

Always make sure you are purchasing from an Amazon Prime partner.  This makes returns a cinch, in addition to generally keeping quality high.  They may be an evil mega-Corp, but the customer service is impeccable.