| General and Gaming > Classic Video Games |
| Grading older games |
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| sworddude:
--- Quote from: gummo on September 08, 2021, 01:41:32 pm --- --- Quote from: burningdoom on September 08, 2021, 02:14:18 am ---In most cases the batteries in games anyway dry up so in most instances nothing would happen aside from save batteries etc being dead. if you have terrible luck than you can have simular scenario's as say xbox consoles in wich you get leaks. --- End quote --- I had a lithium button battery from a watch explode once . It was sitting on my wooden work bench waiting to be replaced , not shorting or anything . After that I don't totally trust them . --- End quote --- Did the explosion leave a mark on that work bench? |
| tripredacus:
My opinions on grading is from outside of the video game sphere. IMO the only things worth grading are things that need to be preserved due to their rarity. In general, this is to mean things that are rare but have a low value do to there being a low or non-existant collector market for it. And I do mean actual rare items, rare due to time or circumstances not rare due to limited production. Also getting something graded for the lulz, an item that has no high value, not particularly sought after but you want to get it preserved. The value is a good consideration since most grading companies will charge a fee based on the current market rate. So unless you are sitting on stacks of cash, there is little reason to get a high value item graded. I only have 1 graded toy which I purchased after the fact. Worthy consideration as it is Antex Camaro from Argentina and it had cost $75 at the time. Finding any Antex toy from the 80s in good condition is rare enough especially outside of South America, so this certainly fits my criteria. Here is what it looks like: https://shmax.com/product_details/2903/camaro_blue I have purchased graded sports cards, but will not spend more than $10 for one, and thus it has to be something I really want. As for items I have gotten graded myself there are only 4 things that I am aware of. Two were rookie hockey cards that I did at a discount. One was a mail-away exchange card and the other was from Upper Deck Black Diamond which is notorious for wear due to how it is printed. The first one I ever did was a lulz grade, an baseball card variation where the guy in the background is readjusting his cup which is this card: https://www.tcdb.com/ViewCard.cfm/sid/132/cid/53396/1989-Score-595-Paul-Gibson The only item I had graded for preservation was a tobacco "card" (triple-folder) I had bought at a rummage sale for $1. It took a few weeks to identify it, and it turned out to be from 1895. As of this time, it is only one of two that are known to exist. There are 2 known graded and there is no photos of it otherwise. This is an item that is extremely rare but has an unknown value because the market for it does not exist. |
| sworddude:
--- Quote from: tripredacus on September 09, 2021, 09:53:18 am ---My opinions on grading is from outside of the video game sphere. IMO the only things worth grading are things that need to be preserved due to their rarity. In general, this is to mean things that are rare but have a low value do to there being a low or non-existant collector market for it. And I do mean actual rare items, rare due to time or circumstances not rare due to limited production. Also getting something graded for the lulz, an item that has no high value, not particularly sought after but you want to get it preserved. The value is a good consideration since most grading companies will charge a fee based on the current market rate. So unless you are sitting on stacks of cash, there is little reason to get a high value item graded. I only have 1 graded toy which I purchased after the fact. Worthy consideration as it is Antex Camaro from Argentina and it had cost $75 at the time. Finding any Antex toy from the 80s in good condition is rare enough especially outside of South America, so this certainly fits my criteria. Here is what it looks like: https://shmax.com/product_details/2903/camaro_blue I have purchased graded sports cards, but will not spend more than $10 for one, and thus it has to be something I really want. As for items I have gotten graded myself there are only 4 things that I am aware of. Two were rookie hockey cards that I did at a discount. One was a mail-away exchange card and the other was from Upper Deck Black Diamond which is notorious for wear due to how it is printed. The first one I ever did was a lulz grade, an baseball card variation where the guy in the background is readjusting his cup which is this card: https://www.tcdb.com/ViewCard.cfm/sid/132/cid/53396/1989-Score-595-Paul-Gibson The only item I had graded for preservation was a tobacco "card" (triple-folder) I had bought at a rummage sale for $1. It took a few weeks to identify it, and it turned out to be from 1895. As of this time, it is only one of two that are known to exist. There are 2 known graded and there is no photos of it otherwise. This is an item that is extremely rare but has an unknown value because the market for it does not exist. --- End quote --- you could also just get a box protector to preserve it. Most things aren't as fragile as comics after all. |
| tripredacus:
I do use box protectors for cardboard box video games and JP CD games (like Saturn) so I can put the obi stip on the "outside" rather than in the jewel case. For the toy, a box protector wasn't an option back when I bought it. Carded toys from South America use inferior cardboard than in the US or EU of that time, so it is extremely difficult to find a cardback that isn't warped or damaged. For something like that, you'd have to purchase the custom acrylic cases that the grading companies sell (now others sell them) in order to make it so the cardboard backer is kept in place. |
| burningdoom:
No more than $10 for a graded card? I imagine you must not find many for that much. Doesn't it cost more than that to send it in to be graded? |
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