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« on: January 25, 2013, 10:22:07 am »
My rules when game hunting
Cart Games - Games can be cart only but must have an intact label and cart must not be damaged
or discolored (unless it's rare and really cheap as a filler) Only exception is Sega
Games Must be complete in box. Unless rare and/or dirt cheap til I can get a box.
CD Games - All CD based games must be complete, Only exception I make is 3DO if inner cd case
had artwork and book (eg. Street Fighter II Turbo) I can live without the large outter
box. I've turned down rare PS1/2 games at cheap prices just because they where CD
only. Cases can be damaged (they are easy to replace) But cover card and book must
be in good shape.
T16/PC Engine Cards - Must have original case and book, only exceptions are the games that only
came in a cardboard box.
Flash Card Games - DS, Gizmondo, N-Gage, Zodiac must all have the case and book.
PSP UMD's - Must be complete in case.
Famicom Disks - Must have plastic case, envelope and inner artwork. N64DD games must be
complete
Game Systems - Must be complete with original controllers, and everything must work. System can
not be damaged in any way, but will except small scuffs especially if it's rare.
While having boxes is a huge plus. I wont pass on loose Game systems. Only
piece I don't mind missing is RF/AV cables. (unless its something exclusive to the
system.)
Sealed games - When i buy a new game I never open it til I'm ready to play it. This way If a game
never gets played and later I find out its valuable I have a sealed copy. But unless
I find a classic game sealed at a good price I don't hunt for sealed games because
It just makes me want to buy the game twice to have one that can be played.
PC games - I don't collect PC/MAC games of any kind. Console Computers is the closest i get to
Collecting PC games. (TI-99, Atari 400/800, VIC20, Aquarius)
Variations - I don't hunt every version of every game, While I do buy games like Maro/duck hunt,
Super Mario (solo), Duck Hunt (solo) Mario/Duck Hunt/Track Field. Or huge label
difference (eg. silver Metroid label & yellow Metroid label) And even collect the Famicom
versions of the same games I own on the NES. But don't go crazy hunting every
Nintendo seal variation or every sears alternate named game on Atari. I only pick these
up when buying a lot of games and these I hold on to just because, but don't rummage
Through every bin of old carts looking for small label variations.
But I do collect Variations of Game Systems as far as models and colors.
While some of these rules I do break if its cheap and hold on to it til I replace it. Like I picked up a couple T16 cards that where card only just because they where so cheap at a garage sale. And I picked up a Sharp Nintendo TV combo that was missing it's game door. But this system is so rare and the price was cheap I couldn't pass on it. Mainly I want to play the games, which is why I don't go crazy hunting sealed games, it's bad enough the few sealed games I have that I feel I can't open and have to hunt down an opened copy.
I love getting Cart boxes, but if I find a loose game for $20 and the boxed version is $100 I'm happy with the loose cart. Games should be played not just sit on a shelf and looked at.
Also I really hate those professionally graded games that are sealed in a plastic case and are overpriced 10-50x what they are worth. Anyone who buys one of these at those insane prices is down right nuts. If those games where only a little extra i can understand, but when I see a copy of SNES FFIII sealed and graded selling for over $1000 that's just crazy.